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	<title>Comments on: Water Miscible Oils</title>
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	<link>http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/03/25/water-miscible-oils/</link>
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	<pubDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:34:02 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: Erik</title>
		<link>http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/03/25/water-miscible-oils/comment-page-1/#comment-9381</link>
		<dc:creator>Erik</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Aug 2010 09:35:40 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Recently I've switched to Cobra which is the new artist grade water miscible oil paint from Royal Talens and results so far have been very satisfactory.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Recently I&#8217;ve switched to Cobra which is the new artist grade water miscible oil paint from Royal Talens and results so far have been very satisfactory.</p>
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		<title>By: Ken</title>
		<link>http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/03/25/water-miscible-oils/comment-page-1/#comment-8862</link>
		<dc:creator>Ken</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Jul 2010 08:57:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=546#comment-8862</guid>
		<description>I have only used one tube of water-miscible oils, and that is an H2Oil by Royal Talens. I bought it because I wanted a single pigment PY154, and it was available in the H2Oil. I use it as a regular oil paint with all my other oils.

However, I have some observations based on my limited use.

First, I like it. The H2Oil has a pleasing sheen when dry (better than my W&amp;N Artist Series) and I really like the feel and colour. It behaves like an oil, and mixes perfectly with regular oils. 

I am so impressed with it that I am considering gradually shifting over to water-miscible as I use up my regular oils. 

This would eliminate solvents. 

Anyone considering these, rest assured that they are "real" oil paints. They have just been modified so they can be mixed with water. Great idea.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have only used one tube of water-miscible oils, and that is an H2Oil by Royal Talens. I bought it because I wanted a single pigment PY154, and it was available in the H2Oil. I use it as a regular oil paint with all my other oils.</p>
<p>However, I have some observations based on my limited use.</p>
<p>First, I like it. The H2Oil has a pleasing sheen when dry (better than my W&amp;N Artist Series) and I really like the feel and colour. It behaves like an oil, and mixes perfectly with regular oils. </p>
<p>I am so impressed with it that I am considering gradually shifting over to water-miscible as I use up my regular oils. </p>
<p>This would eliminate solvents. </p>
<p>Anyone considering these, rest assured that they are &#8220;real&#8221; oil paints. They have just been modified so they can be mixed with water. Great idea.</p>
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		<title>By: David Clemons</title>
		<link>http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/03/25/water-miscible-oils/comment-page-1/#comment-3691</link>
		<dc:creator>David Clemons</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 16 Aug 2009 23:22:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=546#comment-3691</guid>
		<description>The "hobby" argument is silly to me. We're not talking about Crayolas. If I wasn't happy with what I could do with these paints, I wouldn't use them. Regular oil paints are not without their problems either. Come on, fess up, you know that's true. 

The reason I continue to use water-miscible oils is not about convenience. "Yeah, I like to paint so I can wash out my brushes easily." How dumb does that sound?  I rarely use any kind of solvent when I paint except for cleaning. Even some of these paints don't always clean up that easily. I do, however, like to use water and oil emulsions, such as egg or casein, when I paint. I find these oils are more compatible in that regards than regular oils. 

Winsor &amp; Newton by their own admission have said that their Artisans paints have a lower pigment load than their Artist line, but HIGHER than their Winton line, so the quality of that brand is somewhere in between. However, they're not the only company that makes them. In terms of pigment load alone, check the pricing on all these brands for genuine cerulean blue (PB35.) You'll be able to see which ones have a higher pigment load just in terms of price. 

If you're going to do a comparison, you've got to test all of them or else there's no point to it. There are professional grade water-miscible oils. Grumbacher Max, Holbein Aqua-Duos, and Lukas Berlin all rate these equal to their pro level paints. Granted, those brands are not the best professional paints on the market, but that's why I have a mixed shelf of paints, including regular oils of various brands.

The best of these paints have been the Holbein Duos, in my opinion. Very consistent all the way through their color line. My only complaint had been that the color choice was limited, but they've recently added more (labeled as "Elite.") Lukas Berlin were almost as good, but sometimes too oily. The problem I've had with the others is a lack of consistency in handling; sometimes fine, other times too stiff or oily, or took forever to dry.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The &#8220;hobby&#8221; argument is silly to me. We&#8217;re not talking about Crayolas. If I wasn&#8217;t happy with what I could do with these paints, I wouldn&#8217;t use them. Regular oil paints are not without their problems either. Come on, fess up, you know that&#8217;s true. </p>
<p>The reason I continue to use water-miscible oils is not about convenience. &#8220;Yeah, I like to paint so I can wash out my brushes easily.&#8221; How dumb does that sound?  I rarely use any kind of solvent when I paint except for cleaning. Even some of these paints don&#8217;t always clean up that easily. I do, however, like to use water and oil emulsions, such as egg or casein, when I paint. I find these oils are more compatible in that regards than regular oils. </p>
<p>Winsor &amp; Newton by their own admission have said that their Artisans paints have a lower pigment load than their Artist line, but HIGHER than their Winton line, so the quality of that brand is somewhere in between. However, they&#8217;re not the only company that makes them. In terms of pigment load alone, check the pricing on all these brands for genuine cerulean blue (PB35.) You&#8217;ll be able to see which ones have a higher pigment load just in terms of price. </p>
<p>If you&#8217;re going to do a comparison, you&#8217;ve got to test all of them or else there&#8217;s no point to it. There are professional grade water-miscible oils. Grumbacher Max, Holbein Aqua-Duos, and Lukas Berlin all rate these equal to their pro level paints. Granted, those brands are not the best professional paints on the market, but that&#8217;s why I have a mixed shelf of paints, including regular oils of various brands.</p>
<p>The best of these paints have been the Holbein Duos, in my opinion. Very consistent all the way through their color line. My only complaint had been that the color choice was limited, but they&#8217;ve recently added more (labeled as &#8220;Elite.&#8221;) Lukas Berlin were almost as good, but sometimes too oily. The problem I&#8217;ve had with the others is a lack of consistency in handling; sometimes fine, other times too stiff or oily, or took forever to dry.</p>
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		<title>By: Samuel L.</title>
		<link>http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/03/25/water-miscible-oils/comment-page-1/#comment-345</link>
		<dc:creator>Samuel L.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Apr 2009 06:52:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=546#comment-345</guid>
		<description>My fellow on Orkut shared this link   and I'm not dissapointed at all that I came to your blog.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My fellow on Orkut shared this link   and I&#8217;m not dissapointed at all that I came to your blog.</p>
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		<title>By: david</title>
		<link>http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/03/25/water-miscible-oils/comment-page-1/#comment-220</link>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 22:12:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=546#comment-220</guid>
		<description>Lisa -

   I've used both regular and WM oils - they both have their pros and cons, but if you go with the WM option, the ones I've had the best success with are the Holbein Duo paints.   YMMV, but that's been good for me.

   I also found that in his book Brushwork Essentials, Mark Christopher Weber also suggests Holbein Duo paints.  FWIW, that book is pretty exclusively wrapped around the use of WM oils.  http://www.amazon.com/dp/1581801688

   I find the WM oils to be a little more tacky than regular oils, but I get very nice results if I use a couple of the WM mediums with the oils.  I rarely used turp in my regular oil paintings other than for blocking in, so it was just for cleaning.  Likewise, I rarely use water when painting, so it's mostly mixing paint and medium just like when I painted in regular oils.  

  Also, FWIW,  I'm also prone to freeze my brushes at the end of the evening if I'm going to continue painting the next day.  Mark Weber suggested that this is still possible with the WB oils.  I wasn't sure if I could still do that since there might be ice expanding in the ferrule, but it still works like a champ, and saves clean-up time as well as extending brush life.  Plus it makes for good conversation when friends are looking for ice cubes. :)

Jeff - thanks for the Zorn links - those are gorgeous.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Lisa -</p>
<p>   I&#8217;ve used both regular and WM oils - they both have their pros and cons, but if you go with the WM option, the ones I&#8217;ve had the best success with are the Holbein Duo paints.   YMMV, but that&#8217;s been good for me.</p>
<p>   I also found that in his book Brushwork Essentials, Mark Christopher Weber also suggests Holbein Duo paints.  FWIW, that book is pretty exclusively wrapped around the use of WM oils.  <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/1581801688" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/dp/1581801688</a></p>
<p>   I find the WM oils to be a little more tacky than regular oils, but I get very nice results if I use a couple of the WM mediums with the oils.  I rarely used turp in my regular oil paintings other than for blocking in, so it was just for cleaning.  Likewise, I rarely use water when painting, so it&#8217;s mostly mixing paint and medium just like when I painted in regular oils.  </p>
<p>  Also, FWIW,  I&#8217;m also prone to freeze my brushes at the end of the evening if I&#8217;m going to continue painting the next day.  Mark Weber suggested that this is still possible with the WB oils.  I wasn&#8217;t sure if I could still do that since there might be ice expanding in the ferrule, but it still works like a champ, and saves clean-up time as well as extending brush life.  Plus it makes for good conversation when friends are looking for ice cubes. <img src='http://artstudiosecrets.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>Jeff - thanks for the Zorn links - those are gorgeous.</p>
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		<title>By: Cindy Procious</title>
		<link>http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/03/25/water-miscible-oils/comment-page-1/#comment-115</link>
		<dc:creator>Cindy Procious</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Mar 2009 11:38:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=546#comment-115</guid>
		<description>Stunning painting. Watercolor in the hands of a master can have such depth and sophistication.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Stunning painting. Watercolor in the hands of a master can have such depth and sophistication.</p>
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		<title>By: jeff</title>
		<link>http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/03/25/water-miscible-oils/comment-page-1/#comment-106</link>
		<dc:creator>jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Mar 2009 18:15:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=546#comment-106</guid>
		<description>this is a beauty:

http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7367</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>this is a beauty:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7367" rel="nofollow">http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7367</a></p>
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		<title>By: jeff</title>
		<link>http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/03/25/water-miscible-oils/comment-page-1/#comment-105</link>
		<dc:creator>jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Mar 2009 18:14:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=546#comment-105</guid>
		<description>If you have a nut allergy, which is what your alluding to then I suppose common sense is in order. Don't use nut oils. We can peel this onion in a million ways.
Water Miscible Oils are in my view a gimmick for the hobby artist market. 

I would think that one could do a lot with just watercolor with the right amount of study,  as Anders Zorn did.

http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7358

http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7356

http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=10109

http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7357

http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7386</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you have a nut allergy, which is what your alluding to then I suppose common sense is in order. Don&#8217;t use nut oils. We can peel this onion in a million ways.<br />
Water Miscible Oils are in my view a gimmick for the hobby artist market. </p>
<p>I would think that one could do a lot with just watercolor with the right amount of study,  as Anders Zorn did.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7358" rel="nofollow">http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7358</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7356" rel="nofollow">http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7356</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=10109" rel="nofollow">http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=10109</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7357" rel="nofollow">http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7357</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7386" rel="nofollow">http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=7386</a></p>
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		<title>By: Tina Steele Lindsey</title>
		<link>http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/03/25/water-miscible-oils/comment-page-1/#comment-104</link>
		<dc:creator>Tina Steele Lindsey</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Mar 2009 14:57:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=546#comment-104</guid>
		<description>Toxicity and allergies are two separate animals.  One might tolerate substances that are highly caustic/toxic but turn around and be hospitalized die from contact with walnut or poppyseed oil.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Toxicity and allergies are two separate animals.  One might tolerate substances that are highly caustic/toxic but turn around and be hospitalized die from contact with walnut or poppyseed oil.</p>
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		<title>By: jeff</title>
		<link>http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/03/25/water-miscible-oils/comment-page-1/#comment-97</link>
		<dc:creator>jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Mar 2009 18:53:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=546#comment-97</guid>
		<description>My view on this is like lite beer. If you want to drink beer drink real beer.
If you want to paint in oils use oils. Oil and water do not mix, whatever they do this paint is not good in my view. If it was me I would use watercolor, gouache or casein. As far as the transition idea, that to me makes no sense, people should just dive in, buy 6 to 9 artist grade colors and start painting.

For those who are allergic to solvents use walnut oil to clean your brushes.
then wash them in linseed oil soap or olive oil soap. 

Oil paint is not toxic unless you eat it the toxic colors such as Cadmium or Lead.

To quote Scrooge; Water Miscible Oils... bah humbug...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My view on this is like lite beer. If you want to drink beer drink real beer.<br />
If you want to paint in oils use oils. Oil and water do not mix, whatever they do this paint is not good in my view. If it was me I would use watercolor, gouache or casein. As far as the transition idea, that to me makes no sense, people should just dive in, buy 6 to 9 artist grade colors and start painting.</p>
<p>For those who are allergic to solvents use walnut oil to clean your brushes.<br />
then wash them in linseed oil soap or olive oil soap. </p>
<p>Oil paint is not toxic unless you eat it the toxic colors such as Cadmium or Lead.</p>
<p>To quote Scrooge; Water Miscible Oils&#8230; bah humbug&#8230;</p>
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