What is the Best Oil Paint?
Today’s post was written by Jim Harris whom Cindy and I have virtually known for several years. He is an amazing resource of paint knowledge as you’ll see below, and when we were wondering “What’s the best paint?” there was no better person to ask. Enjoy! Thanks, Jim, for writing this!!
P.S. This post was edited on 7-27-10 per Jim’s requests and continuing tests.
Lisa Gloria asked me if I’d like to share my views on the best paint, since I am sort of a self-made paint guru.
My claim to fame is having a large collection of paints (unfortunately, not everything made by every manufacturer), and having done a large number of paint comparisons and comparative mixes between the brands. This is often done on a small scale by just about every oil painter – I simply took it to the max.
I should say right from the start that I have no financial interest in any paint company, and almost all the paint was purchased by me personally. Lately I’ve requested paints from a few makers, but thus far it amounts to only a few tubes out of the hundreds I own.
So, any prejudice or bias is completely my own!
And that’s a good place to start – personal opinion, taste and artistic need. These are often the overriding factors in making paint choices and brand loyalty. Personally, I have no brand loyalty, beyond “what have you done for me lately?” But I’ve found people can get quite attached to the paints they use, even when not of top quality. We all have our reasons for the paints we own, but I try to find what I consider “the best” for all situations.
For the sake of this presentation, I’ll try to keep away from selecting a favorite, or trying to convince you of one that will fill all your needs. Such a brand does not exist, but there may be several that come close.
The first place to start is need: artistic and economic need.
Artistic need – what paint will do the job to be done, with an adequately high quality result. Artistic need can often be satisfied, at least partially, with lower quality paints. (Anyone who knows me is wondering who wrote that! J) For some painters, student grade paints will work, depending on subjects and final resting place. For professionals, better paints become more of an issue.
Economic need – we all have economic need! We all look for a bargain, and remember when paints cost less. Even I hedge my painting by using “adequate” brands for the more expensive pigments, even when I have deluxe paints sitting right next to them in the drawer! Why use up the expensive stuff, when the cheaper one will do? I know the thinking.
After working so much with paint comparisons, I’ve come more and more to use the most expensive paints, and force myself to distance my economic distress and produce the best made painting possible.
This opens the next question of debate: Do quality paints make the artist a better artist? My observations lead me to the opinion that yes, to an extent, better paints and better art materials lead to better paintings. Naturally the inherent genius (or lack of) is the most important factor, and I’m not saying using low quality paints will make any of you geniuses into dummies, or good quality paints make you dummies into artists. That’s on you. But better quality paint will assist in better control of paint, and better opacity or transparency, and paints more suited to the technique you like to employ. All of which result in more painting satisfaction for the artist.
Painting satisfaction is really what we are addressing by trying to determine the best brand of paint. What makes the painter feel better (pride of ownership should not be disregarded)? What assists the painter to produce brushstrokes that were what was intended? Let’s face it — most paintings are done to satisfy the criteria of the painter. So, if the painter is satisfied with the paint and how it handles, that is the final judgment.
What has surprised me is the level of satisfaction with middle-of-the-road paints by otherwise fairly sophisticated painters. I see forum comments all the time about how a painter would never pay such ridiculously high prices for paints.
The average artist, according to what I’ve seen, is an amateur who is largely self-taught and uses the paints they can afford to pursue their hobby, which tend to be the middle-of-the-road brands. A recent survey on well known web forum found the “favorite paint” to be Winsor Newton Artist by more than 50% the respondents. That’s a big, fat bell curve in favor of the mid-grade paint – with approximately 25% feeling even lower quality are acceptable, and the same percentage feeling better quality paints are needed.
I joke about being a “paint snob”, but in a way it is true. Perhaps I know too much, of have been exposed to too many fine paints. Perhaps I am a born snob.
But on the other hand, there are vigorous opponents to quality paints, and we might consider them “paint proletariats” – proud to get by with less.
Somewhere in the middle, likely, we find you, the reader.
You would like to use better paints, but it is terribly expensive to buy all sorts of paint (especially the top brands!) on speculation, or buying the same pigment by multiple manufacturers and then doing the comparisons yourself. Come on! Get serious – you want to paint, not test paint!!!
So how are you going to move up in quality, other than blindly throwing your money at the purported top brands? That’s where a guy like me comes in.
Personally, I love color. Go to my art website if you don’t believe me! Follow a few of my threads or paint arguments on forums. I love paint. I love color. And one of my missions in life is to convince people to use better paint, which means better color.
I like to do comparisons, to show with photos how the paints look compared to each other, and give descriptions that reflect what I experienced in use.
Here’s how I have come to break down the types of paint by their level of quality:
- Student grade
- Artist grade
- Premium grade
Most writers concentrate on dividing paint quality into Student and Artist grades. I find those two categories too limiting with today’s vast global distribution of paint brands. So I’ve shifted the break-points and added a top level – Premium grade.
Each grade I am suggesting is actually a range of paint. Even if something is listed as “Artist Grade” there is a wide range of quality from top to bottom of the class. As the brands get better on the scale, there are less “hues” or imitation colors, and more genuine pigments used – also better care in the milling process.
Student Grade describes acceptable paints of lower quality – not real dogs that you wouldn’t give a blind man to experiment with. These paints usually have less pigment and more “filler”, so the opaque paints are not quite so opaque and the transparent paints tend to be waxy and weak. Some student paint lines are fairly decent, such as the Maimeri Classico brand (my recommendation – no fillers) or Winsor Newton Winton brand.
Artist Grade takes in a broad range of paints of that can be used to produce professional results. This is the bulk of paint brands on the market, and they are fairly economical choices, but a step up in quality from the student brands. Artist paints feature higher pigment loads, with better pigment quality and more single pigment choices.
Premium Grade paints is the category I have coined to include all the best. The best pigments, the best production oversight, the best tubes, the best – best! These paints have the highest pigment load, the best opacity, the cleanest transparencies, even when diluted with mediums. These are usually the most expensive, but you get more for your money in most cases. Consistency of the paint is another area where the premium paints shine – they spread well from the tube, or they are so laden with pigment that slight additional oil might be desired to blend to suit the artist.
Other criteria within every category for determining the standings are lot-to-lot consistency over the years, and the breadth of the product line (how many different tubes of paint are offered).
Here is a general breakdown of currently available paints I am personally familiar with. Each category shows the weakest entry on the top of the list and the best at the bottom.
Student grade paints
- DR Georgian
- Van Gogh
- Permalba/Bob Ross
- Winton
- Classico (best of the student)
Artist grade paints
- Grumbacher
- Zecchi
- Da Vinci
- Art Spectrum (Australia)
- Lefranc et Bourgeois
- Richeson Shiva (edited 7-10)
- Gamblin
- Holbein
- Sennelier
- M. Graham
- Rembrandt
- Daniel Smith
- Winsor Newton
- Robert Doak (edited 7-10)
- Natural Pigments (edited 7-10)
Premium grade paints
- Studio Products
- Blue Ridge (edited 7-10)
- Williamsburg
- Maimeri Puro
- Michael Harding
- Mussini
- Blockx
- Vasari
- Old Holland
The four entries at the bottom of the premium list are my candidates for “best paint”. I could be satisfied (theoretically, at least) using any one of these lines exclusively. Thankfully, I have the option of using all of them, and more.
Schmincke’s Mussini (Germany) is the only paint made with a resin additive as an ingredient in every tube. This brand has the best “from the tube” consistency for brushing. It has the overall best color (especially in the transparent colors) and a wide range of tubes. Oil type and blend is tailored to specific pigments.
Blockx (Belgium) is an all-around powerhouse brand with outstanding smooth consistency and color fidelity. Blockx uses linseed oil for all dark colors and earths, but switches to poppy oil for all light and bright colors.
Vasari (United States) would be my top choice, if it had a slightly fuller product line. A downside is poor worldwide availability (direct sales in the US) unless you place a $500 order overseas (Jackson’s UK is carrying Vasari). As it is, the line is excellent in scope, and the colors are magnificent. These are the most fluid of the paints in any category of this list, but have the best color concentration and excellent opacity and tinting strength. Vasari is certainly my favorite paint to work with.
My choice of Best Paint would have to go to Old Holland (Netherlands) for its wonderful thick consistency of extreme pigment load (which responds well to thinning with mediums), outstanding colors, and extremely broad product line of tubes. Lot-to-lot consistency is impressive.
The final judge is you, the paint user. I am sure you will use the best paint you can afford.
My advice to economy-minded painters looking to improve their paint collections is to buy the lower series paints from the very top brands. These Series A and B, or Series 1 & 2, are usually the most useful earth colors and blacks and whites. Build with these to try out the best brands. You will always use up the paint, even if you buy duplicates for comparison. Buy a tube of OH Burnt Sienna and one of Vasari and see the difference. Other representative pigment choices are Yellow Ochre, lead white, Mars Black, Ultramarine Blue, . . . you can get quite a lot of painting done with these, and not have to take out a loan.
I hope this information makes it somewhat easier for you to choose better paints for your collection.


(18 votes, average: 4.83 out of 5)








Hi Jim,
I’ve benefited from your posts on WetCanvas and thanks to you have expanded my oil paint collection from W&N and Old Holland to include Blockx, Blue Ridge, Williamsburg and (most recently) an order from Vasari. I’m looking forward to trying Mussini, too. So thanks very, very much!
Didn’t Yves Klein achieve part of his effect by mixing pigment with resin? I wonder if Mussini is doing a bit of that, or am I misunderstanding? Any recommendations on favorite Mussini colors would be welcome, too.
Thanks,
Brendan (Snail)
Brendan — That’s very good news! I’m happy you liked my suggestions in paints and they are working well for you.
I’m not trying to be evasive, but probably a discussion of recommendations of Mussini paints might be best conducted in the forum format, with the opportunity for questions and responses and more member involvement. Maybe you could start a thread.
Mussini oil paint with resin added have been in production by Schmincke since the 1880’s, so Yves Klein would be a latecomer if that was his approach!
If you take a Mussini color chart and throw a dart — you will undoubtedly hit a desirable paint you must have. The brand is probably most famous for its jewel-like qualities, so try any transparent or transluscent color. But the earths and opaques are great too.
Hello Jim,I need some advice on these three brands of oil paint: Old Holland….Williamsburg….and Blue Ridge.I know that in your post you gave informatian on Old Holland ( Some people say that Old Holland’s pigment load is to deep?),but I really need some informatian on Williamsburg and Blue Ridge Oil Paints.Quite a few people have stated that Williamsburg ranks with Old Holland.Is this true? I think Old Holland Has the most beutiful colors.Also, Williamsburg Stil De Grain Brown is a very nice color.If you could please email back,that would be very helpful.Thanks,Kevin Bellis……..
Kevin — As I’ve said, I rank OH as the #1paint brand for its quality and the extent of its offerings. With regards to strictly quality, OH shares the top with several other brands, including Vasari, Blockx, Mussini and Michael Harding – all at the top of the Premium brands.
Both Williamsburg and Blue Ridge both edge into the Premium category, but not to the extent of the others brands listed above. Robert Doak and Studio Products are also in that same range (Doak is sometimes top of Artist, depending on customer satisfaction results).
Williamsburg has an extensive line with many orthodox traditional pigments – many historic types and grinds. Because of this inclination, the consistency of many paints would be described as “gritty” and some have limited tinting strength in the natural earths. (Funny that you mention Stil de Grain – I had two tubes of these a few years ago and both were gritty, with dark flecks throughout – unacceptable to me.) Others might be “pasty”, where OH seems more creamy. But many, such as most cadmiums, are gorgeous in color and consistency. It seems Williamsburg has just been purchased by Golden paints following the death last year of its founder, Carl Plansky.
Blue Ridge is a new brand by up-and-coming artist/paint maker, Eric Silver. Most of the line is very good, either at the top of the Artist Grade, or quite a few in the Premium category. Eric is reaching a new level with specially prepared versions of well known pigments, which he calls “Select” – although not readily available for sale at the moment, these paints are ultra-premium, ranking as high as any brands. At the moment, Blue Ridge is the economical favorite among top brands.
Have you ever used “Classic” brand paint? I believe they are made in California.
http://www.artistoils.com
Thanks,
Judy
I found this statement in the recent comments interesting as I’ve just made the switch to alkyds:
“I don’t recommend painting traditional oil layers on top of alkyd layers, as there have been reports of problems using that method.”
What kinds of problems?
I became convinced of the advantages of alkyds partly because of the Amien site.
Do you have a tried and true painting medium formula?
Judy — Yes I have tried the Classic paints. I had eight quarts and checked it out when I was doing larger canvases, hoping to save money. I found the paints to be student grade with low pigment load compared to others such as Winsor Newton Artist. The paint is useable, but not particularly good — plenty of stablilzer/extender. I off-loaded the cans on eBay a last year — hopefully some theatrical company is using it for some nice backgrounds.
sienna — There have been reports from experienced artists of delamination of layers - pealing or flaking off from use of alkyd layers mixed with oil layers. I haven’t personally had this happen, and the paint makers have not produced evidence, but the number of reports seem to indicate a potential problem.
My approach is to keep paint layers as consistent as possible regard to the type of binding oils and any resins introduced. If I were making changes, I would do so incrementally, or using layers with very small amounts of resin.
Usually if you start a painting using resin, such as amber or copal, you intend to use it all the way through the painting, or start with a non-resin beginning, added resin in later layers. There are centuries of evidence supporting this approach.
With binding oils it is not usually much of a problem as they are well mixed in use and pretty compatible to start with. We don’t see a full layer of linseed-based paint applied, and then layer of safflower, walnut, or poppy. We could see that sort of stucture, but I would avoid making any such disjointed layers, just as a precaution.
Alkyds might be used differently, leading to delaminations. I can’t speculate much on them, since I don’t have any personal evidence and I’ve stopped using alkyd paints (but still use some alkyd mediums). Alkyd resin/oil doesn’t behave the same as traditional oils in many ways: it cures differently, flexes differently and expands/contracts differently. In some of these, alkyd is superior to tradititional oils. But in its ability to hold pigment, alkyd only manages about 50% of what traditional oils can hold — that is going to make a lot of serious painters unhappy.
My recommendation is to either paint strictly in alkyd-based paints, or to blend them into traditional paints to enhance drying, and to continue to do so throughout the layers — don’t switch from alkyd to oil in alternating layers. As a result it seems to me that fast drying alkyd paints lend themselves to an approach of less layers, compared to the extensive fat-over-lean oil layers.
Thickness of the paint layers could also play some part in the alkyd delaminations. There are quite a few intermingling factors. The mention of layers above is mostly regarding thin, relatively rapid drying layers.
I’m not an expert on this subject of alkyd/layers, and don’t want to to spend a lot of time on this “Best Paint” topic. The long and short: be as consistent as possible in your approach, and use the highest quality materials available.
Alkyds paints are considered student grade, for their low pigment load, if nothing else — and not high quality.
hi Jim,
You’re looking very smart in the gallery opening photo in front of the paint calibration pictures. I love the wallpaper designs. Blocks and stripes of colour can be so inspiring in my bathroom. All the best my love and keep up the good work. x x x
Hello Jim,
Excellent article! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have a question on consistency of paints: which student and artist grade paints are fluid? I like to paint fast and prefer not to mix medium or solvent with my paints. Some of the paints I currently use are pretty stiff and are hard to work with for what I need.
Thank you!
- Tesh
In the Student Grade, Maimeri Classico is the loosest/oiliest (I consider it the best of the Student variety). In Artist Grade, Rembrandt, M. Graham and Zecchi would be the loosest/oiliest.
thanx for the great info.I am looking for an inexspensive proffesional grad oil paint that does
has anyone here used chroma archival oil paints? if so, what was your impression of them?
Hi Jim, i am a A level student and i have found this very useful as my collection is only made up of W & N, even though i am still only a student i would like to start working with better paints. thank you so much
Josie x
I prefer a very stiff paint for some of the techniques I use. Of the Artist grade paints which would be the less oily?
wc — Most paints are intentionally made to not be stiff. Artists prefer looser paints for spreading and blending. You have a few options: take a high quality paint and add something to stiffen it (such as Tix-o-gel, or marble paste), or try a low quality paint (a student grade like Georgian) that already has thickening additives.
Even with student paints having thickening additives, some of the paints are looser than others. The best way to ensure a uniformily thick consistency would be to control the preparation yourself.
lawrence — You’ve left your sentence incomplete, but I’ll take a whack at it anyway! Since writing this article, I’ve compared a number of the paints from Richeson’s Shiva Signature line and found them to be excellent paint and an excellent value. I would like to add them to the mid Artist Grade, and along with L&B, suggest they are the best quality/value choice that suits your criteria of “inexpensive professional grade”.
What do you think of Davinci’s line of alkyd oil paints? Also, do you know whether W&N still offers alkyd oils? Thanks.
C.G. — I’ve used a few of Da Vinci’s alkyd paints (Leonardo, I believe). They are fine if you like alkyd paints, as good or better than WN Griffin.
Yes, WN still makes the Griffin line.
The downside of alkyd paints is that they only are capable of holding about 1/2 the pigment found in quality oil paints. That’s more than acrylic, but much less than oils. Now you know the reason alkyd paint cost so much less than comparable oil paint.
But alkyd is handy when you want fast drying paintings, and it can be mixed into traditional oil paints to speed them up too.
I use old holland and williamsburg as my main paints combind however I’m thinking about Charvin oil paints extre fine there cerlean blue green shade etc. what do you know about this product?
Gene — I checked into Charvin after they were introduced a couple years ago by their US distributors, Jerry’s/ASW Express. What I found caused me to avoid the brand, and I still haven’t tried it. Maybe I will try it someday, but I’m in no hurry.
The brand is predominantly composed of pigment mixes, specifically tints, and lacks any strong organization (I certainly not against tubing strings of color, following the hues of Reilly or Munsell) or pigment “strengths” (other than tints).
The brand lacks a strong core of high quality single pigments. Also off-putting was the fact that the prices are relatively high. I didn’t understand the point of the two-tiered system of a student grade, and then an ultra-premium grade. Why not simply produce your best, and skip the cheap stuff?
Besides that, I couldn’t find much of a history on Charvin — seems sort of flash, with little substance, not like Old Holland, Blockx, L&B, WN, and other long-standing European brands with solid reputations and quality.
If you like OH and WB, I suggest you buy Vasari and Blockx.