Comments on: Oil Supply List for Beginners http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/11/15/oil-supply-list-for-beginners/ Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:26:58 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.7.1 hourly 1 By: Jim Harris http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/11/15/oil-supply-list-for-beginners/comment-page-1/#comment-8854 Jim Harris Tue, 13 Jul 2010 06:24:16 +0000 http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=1748#comment-8854 James -- Lead white is readily available in the US from a wide range of manufacturers, American and European. No shortage exists. European painters are having increasing trouble getting lead paint, so if that is who you are warning, fair enough! Bett -- "Hue" just means a cheaper pigment of similar color has been substituted. It certainly won't do any harm, but won't be as rich or powerful as the original in full strength Artist grade versions. Lisa -- Nice article, and thanks for the tip of the hat. :) James — Lead white is readily available in the US from a wide range of manufacturers, American and European. No shortage exists. European painters are having increasing trouble getting lead paint, so if that is who you are warning, fair enough!

Bett — “Hue” just means a cheaper pigment of similar color has been substituted. It certainly won’t do any harm, but won’t be as rich or powerful as the original in full strength Artist grade versions.

Lisa — Nice article, and thanks for the tip of the hat. :)

]]> By: jennifer Sykes http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/11/15/oil-supply-list-for-beginners/comment-page-1/#comment-6162 jennifer Sykes Sat, 30 Jan 2010 23:37:53 +0000 http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=1748#comment-6162 oh, and "hue" just means even less pigment. oh, and “hue” just means even less pigment.

]]> By: jennifer Sykes http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/11/15/oil-supply-list-for-beginners/comment-page-1/#comment-6161 jennifer Sykes Sat, 30 Jan 2010 23:37:12 +0000 http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=1748#comment-6161 At Otis College of Art and Design, Winton and other cheap student grade paints are not allowed on campus. If you spend $50 on one small tube of a brand like Old Holland, it will last you longer than buying 10 large tubes of cheap paint. This is due to the pigment content. With artist grade paint, a smal amount goes a long way. with cheap paint, an entire tube is often needed for one paintng. At Otis College of Art and Design, Winton and other cheap student grade paints are not allowed on campus.
If you spend $50 on one small tube of a brand like Old Holland, it will last you longer than buying 10 large tubes of cheap paint. This is due to the pigment content. With artist grade paint, a smal amount goes a long way. with cheap paint, an entire tube is often needed for one paintng.

]]> By: Bett http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/11/15/oil-supply-list-for-beginners/comment-page-1/#comment-5378 Bett Sat, 19 Dec 2009 19:49:35 +0000 http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=1748#comment-5378 I am a complete beginning painter, but people seem to like what I do. I'm currently using acrylics, and have been mixing from the Utrecht Artist line in the following colors: Cad Yellow Medium Cad Yellow Light Cad Lemon Yellow Ultramarine Blue Cobalt Blue Cadmium Red Medium Alizarin Crimson Titanium White with some success. Not getting the blackest blacks, but doing pretty well there. I've also been adding in some oddball colors from the original set our teacher gave us (all kinds of hues and modern wacky dye type colors that are cool but I'm not sure about them.) Now, I was just was given a set of "Winton" oils. It contains: Cad Yellow Light Hue Cad Red Deep Hue French Ultramarine Phthalo Blue Perm Green Light Viridian Hue Yellow Ochre Burnt Sienna Ivory Black Titanium White Is it a mistake to even use the "hue" colors? Is it a good idea to mess around with these to get a feel for the medium, and then go buy a whole lot of better quality oils? $$$! Of the Winton brand, are any of these colors worth seriously using and keeping until they are used up? Halp and thanks! I am a complete beginning painter, but people seem to like what I do. I’m currently using acrylics, and have been mixing from the Utrecht Artist line in the following colors:

Cad Yellow Medium
Cad Yellow Light
Cad Lemon Yellow
Ultramarine Blue
Cobalt Blue
Cadmium Red Medium
Alizarin Crimson
Titanium White

with some success. Not getting the blackest blacks, but doing pretty well there.
I’ve also been adding in some oddball colors from the original set our teacher gave us (all kinds of hues and modern wacky dye type colors that are cool but I’m not sure about them.)

Now, I was just was given a set of “Winton” oils. It contains:

Cad Yellow Light Hue
Cad Red Deep Hue
French Ultramarine
Phthalo Blue
Perm Green Light
Viridian Hue
Yellow Ochre
Burnt Sienna
Ivory Black
Titanium White

Is it a mistake to even use the “hue” colors? Is it a good idea to mess around with these to get a feel for the medium, and then go buy a whole lot of better quality oils? $$$!

Of the Winton brand, are any of these colors worth seriously using and keeping until they are used up?

Halp and thanks!

]]> By: Lisa Gloria http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/11/15/oil-supply-list-for-beginners/comment-page-1/#comment-4881 Lisa Gloria Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:45:49 +0000 http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=1748#comment-4881 Actually now that i think of it a little more, i agree that cad yellow is important but i think it's not right for a beginner list. just my opinion, but it's way too pigmenting and hard to control in mixtures, plus it's a more expensive pigment. Actually now that i think of it a little more, i agree that cad yellow is important but i think it’s not right for a beginner list. just my opinion, but it’s way too pigmenting and hard to control in mixtures, plus it’s a more expensive pigment.

]]> By: Lisa Gloria http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/11/15/oil-supply-list-for-beginners/comment-page-1/#comment-4879 Lisa Gloria Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:35:30 +0000 http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=1748#comment-4879 it's a light lemon yellow, a little toward the green side. any of them will do including cad yellow.... it’s a light lemon yellow, a little toward the green side. any of them will do including cad yellow….

]]> By: Cindy Procious http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/11/15/oil-supply-list-for-beginners/comment-page-1/#comment-4878 Cindy Procious Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:14:33 +0000 http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=1748#comment-4878 I have to admit, I have no clue what Arylide yellow is - is it a substitue for Cad yellow? Because I would consider Cad Y an essential (or if you're afraid of the cadmium - get Cad Yellow Hue.) As for the Flake vs. Titanium - it's highly useful in painting flesh tones, too. Flesh mixed with titanium white, unless you're REALLY good, winds up looking "chalky" - which looks somewhat like a layer of powder over the top. I have to admit, I have no clue what Arylide yellow is - is it a substitue for Cad yellow? Because I would consider Cad Y an essential (or if you’re afraid of the cadmium - get Cad Yellow Hue.)

As for the Flake vs. Titanium - it’s highly useful in painting flesh tones, too. Flesh mixed with titanium white, unless you’re REALLY good, winds up looking “chalky” - which looks somewhat like a layer of powder over the top.

]]> By: Lisa Gloria http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/11/15/oil-supply-list-for-beginners/comment-page-1/#comment-4877 Lisa Gloria Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:54:32 +0000 http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=1748#comment-4877 Titanium is whiter, but it's more opaque. Flake is more transparent, and more in keeping with the jewel-like look of traditional oils. When mixing, it is easier to maintain chroma if you use flake. Try it, you;ll see what i mean. I guess we should write a post about this. Titanium is whiter, but it’s more opaque. Flake is more transparent, and more in keeping with the jewel-like look of traditional oils. When mixing, it is easier to maintain chroma if you use flake. Try it, you;ll see what i mean.

I guess we should write a post about this.

]]> By: james Bright http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/11/15/oil-supply-list-for-beginners/comment-page-1/#comment-4876 james Bright Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:53:34 +0000 http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=1748#comment-4876 Thanks for the tip on the lead primed panels...I have found that the few times I used even lead primed canvas...the painting process and activity was more pleasurable...hmmm. what have I been missing? Thanks for the tip on the lead primed panels…I have found that the few times I used even lead primed canvas…the painting process and activity was more pleasurable…hmmm.
what have I been missing?

]]> By: Lisa Gloria http://artstudiosecrets.com/2009/11/15/oil-supply-list-for-beginners/comment-page-1/#comment-4875 Lisa Gloria Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:51:37 +0000 http://artstudiosecrets.com/?p=1748#comment-4875 I use the L600 panels from New Traditions (and Cindy just got some too). They're very smooth and the lead priming makes the paint go on so silky! If you are using acrylic, please order the acrylic ground. And if you like a lot of weave showing, the 600 will be too smooth for you but I love it. Also, I get them on Gatorfoam. I use the L600 panels from New Traditions (and Cindy just got some too). They’re very smooth and the lead priming makes the paint go on so silky! If you are using acrylic, please order the acrylic ground. And if you like a lot of weave showing, the 600 will be too smooth for you but I love it. Also, I get them on Gatorfoam.

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